Hiking Yaeyama: Kagoshima’s Hidden Trail with Stunning Views

Prologue: A Message That Changed Everything

For several days, I had been feeling a mix of excitement and nervousness as I prepared for my first solo mountain hike. On the morning of the hike, I woke up at my usual time and started getting ready by turning on the rice cooker.

As I opened the curtains and let the fresh morning air in, a LINE message came through. A friend of mine suddenly had a change in schedule and was free. I invited them, and they instantly agreed to join!

After spending a few days getting nervous for no reason, the hike turned into a joyful trip with a friend.

We left the house around 9:00 a.m. and arrived at the parking lot exactly at 10:00. The weather was perfect — no wind, clear skies, and fresh air rushing through our bodies.

Spirea (kodemari) were blooming in pure white, almost as if they were smiling and saying, “Welcome!”

At the entrance of the parking area, a sign guided us to the trailhead.

The sign said the summit was 2.8 km away, about 1 hour and 10 minutes on foot.

Chapter 1: The Journey Begins

About 5 minutes from the parking lot, we arrived at the official trail entrance, where a beautiful torii gate stood.

My friend and I bowed together, offering a silent prayer:
“For a safe hike today — and gratitude for being allowed into this natural field.”

If you’re not confident in your physical strength, this is a good place to rent a walking stick. The descent in particular can be surprisingly hard on the legs, so don’t hesitate to rent one if needed!

Chapter 2: Through the Torii, Into the Forest

We bowed at the torii, praying for a safe hike.

Let’s go!

The trail begins with a surprisingly steep staircase. Just as we started feeling tired, the slope softened into gentler terrain.

At the 2.2 km mark.

we came across a small stream with clear water trickling through — water that eventually flows into Kinko Bay.

By now, our bodies had adjusted to the walk, and we began to fully enjoy the surrounding nature. Since we visited in early May, we were blessed with the lush beauty of fresh greenery everywhere.
A vibrant sea of light green leaves seemed to soak up the sun’s energy.

1.6 km to go!

We came across something unusual

a circular area lined with stones

known as “Zenitsumi-ishi.” Unfortunately, due to fallen trees, we couldn’t approach it directly from this route.

Chapter 3: The Final Climb and a View of Kagoshima

After hiking for about 40 minutes, we encountered another steep incline. Then — a large fallen tree blocked the path. Seeing its power was truly awe-inspiring.

After climbing a bit more, the trail became flat again. Only 500 meters to go!

Around here, we noticed more broadleaf trees, compared to the cedar forests we passed earlier.

This section offered a gentle cool-down walk, perfect before the summit.

We came across a mysterious stone marker labeled “Triangulation Point” (used for map-making in Japan).

Nearby was a cylindrical marker labeled “Astronomical Observation Point,” used to measure the stars and Earth’s position.

Excited by this unexpected knowledge, we headed joyfully toward the summit!

(Though I wondered — maybe this was already the highest point of the mountain?)

Chapter 4: A Blessing at the Summit – Halos and Contrails

Boom!

The moment we reached the viewing platform, the landscape opened up completely.

To the left: Sakurajima. 
In the center: Kagoshima City and Kinko Bay. 
And far off to the right: Kaimondake, faintly visible in the distance.

It was breathtaking.

I opened the canned coffee I’d brought to enjoy at the summit, and took a sip.

Surrounded by nature, that ordinary canned coffee transformed into a special, unforgettable brew!

Then came the onigiri from home — a perfect match.

Just then, a little girl nearby said, 
“Mommy, there’s a contrail in the sky — that means it’ll rain soon!”

My friend and I looked up.

And there it was…

A contrail, and just ahead of it — a glowing halo around the sun.

A sign of blessing for the future?

A perfect moment in the place closest to the sky in Kagoshima City — the “ring of light” and a contrail, shining like a gentle light upon the path ahead.

Chapter 5: Exploring Nearby Spots

Our descent was uneventful and safe.

Since we were already in the area, we visited nearby attractions:

Kotsuki Pond — the source of the Kotsuki River, 

and Hanao Shrine — a quiet place of deep history.

We offered our thanks to the calm water and ancient shrine.

Chapter 6: A Life Story at a Retro Café

On our way home, we stopped at a retro café called “Rich,” opened in 1988 in Koriyama Town.

The master — a 78-year-old woman

brewed our coffee slowly, using a siphon.

Unlike the canned coffee at the summit, this was exceptionally smooth, with mild acidity and a gentle sweetness.

She told us about the monthly jazz nights held every fourth Saturday — a tradition lasting over 20 years.

It all began when a sweaty young man once asked, “May we perform here?” while watering the parking lot. She welcomed them, and they’ve been playing ever since.

Two regulars, 84 and 70 years old, still drive in every week for coffee and conversation.

“Bonds between people, carried through music and time.”

As we chatted, the master kindly served us her homemade rice ball and green tea.

(Another rice ball, just like at the summit… how perfect.)

As we were leaving, she saw us off and said:

“Thank you for listening to my story.”

No — thank *you* for sharing such a precious story with us.

Final Chapter: A Day of Miraculous Encounters

Nature, friends, strangers, and even myself — 
This day was a dialogue with them all.

So many small miracles in one day. 
I’m so glad I wen

🔎Mini Guide: About Yaeyama

1. Name Origin 
“Yaeyama” means “many overlapping mountains.” 
The word “yae” symbolizes natural harmony, used even in ancient texts like the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki.

2. Location 
Yaeyama, Koriyama Town, Kagoshima City 
Altitude: approx. 520 meters 
Easy for beginners, with stunning views of Sakurajima, Kinko Bay, and Kaimondake. 
Features both a triangulation point and an astronomical observation marker.

3. Local History 
Koriyama has long thrived on agriculture and natural water sources. 
In the Edo period, it was a key site for farming and forestry under the Satsuma Domain. 
Modern surveying left behind the triangulation and astronomical markers still visible today.

— End of “Little Steps, Big Smiles: Yaeyama Edition” —

To you, the one reading this: 
May today bring a little miracle to your journey as well.

From Haru & Riri-suke